Do you remember the click of a compact snapping shut? For a lot of us it's the sound of a grandmother or mother checking her nose before church, a puff of powder and a quick glance in that little round mirror. Compacts were made by the millions from the 1920s through the 1960s, and they're still one of the most fun vintage pieces to collect, because they come in every shape, finish and gimmick you can imagine.
Here's how to figure out what you're holding.
A very short history
Compacts took off in the 1920s, when it finally became acceptable for women to powder their noses in public. Through the 1930s, '40s and '50s, American makers turned them out in gold-tone, enamel, mother-of-pearl, rhinestones and novelty shapes, and they were a go-to gift for birthdays, Christmas and graduations. By the 1960s, pressed powder in plastic cases had mostly replaced the refillable metal compact, which is why the golden age of collectible compacts ends about there.
The main kinds of compacts
- Loose powder compacts: These have a mesh or perforated sifter screen over the powder well to keep loose powder from spilling. A sifter is a good sign of an earlier compact.
- Pressed powder compacts: These hold a cake of pressed powder, usually from the 1950s on.
- Vanity cases and carryalls: These are larger cases with room for powder, rouge, lipstick and sometimes a comb or cigarettes. The fancier ones are called minaudières.
- Lipstick mirrors: These are small flip or clip-on mirrors that hold a lipstick tube, made to check your lips at the table.
- Solid perfume compacts: These are small, often figural cases that hold a solid perfume instead of powder, like the 1970s Revlon Moon Drops toad.
- Novelty and figural compacts: These come in the shapes of hats, purses, pianos, animals and more, and they're some of the most collected.
Makers to look for
Many compacts are unsigned, but signed pieces are easier to date and usually bring more. Look inside the lid, on the powder well or on the back for names like these:
- Elgin American: This was an American maker known for gold-tone, mother-of-pearl and rhinestone compacts, especially in the 1940s and '50s.
- Volupté: This American maker is loved for novelty shapes and elegant gold-tone designs.
- Evans: This American maker made compacts, vanity cases and mesh carryalls.
- Stratton: This British maker is known for engine-turned and enamel compacts, often with a distinctive inner lid.
- Rex Fifth Avenue, Zell Fifth Avenue and Wadsworth: These are more American makers you'll see often, many from the 1940s and '50s.
- Cosmetic brands: Coty, Max Factor, Richard Hudnut and Estée Lauder all sold powder in their own branded compacts.
Sometimes the only mark is on the powder puff. A puff stamped with a maker's name is a nice clue, even if the case itself is unsigned.
Dating clues
- Sifter screens and loose powder usually point to an earlier compact.
- Engine-turned gold-tone, the fine machine-cut lines in a pattern, was popular from the 1930s through the 1950s.
- Monograms and initials, often in rhinestones or script, were popular gifts in the 1940s and '50s.
- Mother-of-pearl, enamel and pavé rhinestone lids were especially popular in the 1940s and '50s.
- Plastic cases generally mean 1960s or later.
What to check before you buy
- Mirror: Is it there? Missing mirrors are common and lower the value. Look for desilvering, which shows as dark spots or cloudy edges.
- Hinge and clasp: Does it open easily and snap shut tight? A loose catch is a common problem.
- Stones: On rhinestone compacts, count missing stones and look for dull or cloudy ones.
- Finish: Look for scratches in enamel, worn gold-tone and green corrosion around hinges.
- Extras: The original puff, sifter, box or pouch all add value.
A little care goes a long way
Empty old powder over a trash can, then wipe the inside gently with a dry cloth or a soft brush. Clean gold-tone and enamel with a barely damp cloth and dry it right away. Avoid dunking a compact in water, because water gets under rhinestones and behind mirrors and causes damage. Never use harsh metal polish on gold-tone, because it can rub right through the plating.
Vanity pieces in the shop
- David Webb for Revlon Moon Drops toad solid perfume compact, 1970s
- Clip-on lipstick mirror with a porcelain courting scene
- Panthère de Cartier dusting powder with twin panther head lid
- Silver plate repoussé hand mirror with roses and scrolls
Tell us about yours
Did someone in your family carry a compact you still remember? Maybe it was a rhinestone one for special occasions, or a worn gold one that lived in her purse. We'd love to hear about it.
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