Vintage jewelry isn't all rhinestones and glass. Makers have set natural stones in rings, brooches, bracelets and necklaces for centuries. Here's a guide to the stones you'll see most, how to recognize them, and how to tell real stone from imitations.
Real Stone vs. Glass and Plastic: Quick Checks
- Temperature: real stone feels cool to the touch and stays cool a little longer. Plastic feels warm right away.
- Weight: stone feels heavier than plastic of the same size.
- Look closely: natural stones have little inclusions, uneven color and natural patterns. Glass often shows tiny round bubbles and swirl lines; plastic may show mold seams.
- Too perfect? Perfectly even color and identical beads can mean dyed, reconstituted or imitation stone.
Turquoise
Sky blue to green, often with dark or brown veins called matrix. Beloved in Southwestern and Native American jewelry, especially set in sterling silver. Watch for dyed howlite or magnesite, white stones dyed blue to imitate it, and stabilized or reconstituted turquoise, which is treated or made from crushed bits. Natural, untreated turquoise is the most valuable.
Agate and Carnelian
Agate is a banded stone in browns, grays, reds and many other colors; Scottish agate jewelry was hugely popular in Victorian times. Carnelian is a glowing orange-red agate, common in antique seals and rings. Many bright blue, pink and purple agates are dyed.
Onyx
Black onyx was a favorite in Art Deco and mourning jewelry, and in men's rings. Most black onyx is actually dyed agate, which is normal and accepted. Black glass imitations were common too.
Jade
Jade comes in two kinds, jadeite and nephrite, in greens, white, lavender and more. It feels cool, heavy and smooth. Many "jade" pieces are actually glass, dyed quartz, serpentine or aventurine, so be careful with labels.
Tiger's Eye
Golden brown with a shimmering band of light that moves as you turn it. Very popular in mid-century men's jewelry, cufflinks and rings.
Malachite
Deep green with bold light-and-dark green bands. It's soft, so look for scratches. Imitations often have bands that look printed or too regular.
Lapis Lazuli
Deep royal blue, often with flecks of gold pyrite. Lapis with lots of white streaks is lower grade. Dyed jasper and "Swiss lapis" are common lookalikes.
Moonstone
Milky and translucent, with a floating blue or white sheen. A favorite of Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts jewelers. Glass imitations are common.
Garnet
Usually deep red. Victorian Bohemian garnet jewelry, packed with small rose-cut garnets, is especially collectible.
Amethyst, Citrine and Quartz
Quartz comes in many colors: purple amethyst, golden citrine, rose quartz, smoky quartz and clear rock crystal. Amethyst was a favorite in Victorian and Art Deco jewelry. Much citrine is heat-treated amethyst.
Other Stones You'll See
- Coral: red to pink, popular in Victorian and mid-century jewelry. It's actually organic, not stone, and much is dyed or imitated.
- Jasper: opaque, earthy patterned stone in reds, greens and browns.
- Hematite: shiny metallic gray, heavy and cool. Much modern "hematite" is man-made.
- Bloodstone: dark green with red spots, common in Victorian men's rings and seals.
- Opal: see our synthetic opal guide.
Caring for Natural Stones
- Many stones, like turquoise, malachite, coral and opal, are soft or porous. Avoid soaking them, chemicals, perfume and ultrasonic cleaners.
- Wipe with a soft, slightly damp cloth and dry right away.
- Store stone jewelry separately so harder stones don't scratch softer ones.
Read more in our guides to real and faux pearls and cameo materials, and browse our rings, necklaces and bracelets.
Do you have a favorite stone, or a piece of stone jewelry passed down in your family? Tell us about it.