So you've inherited a jewelry box. Maybe it was Mom's, maybe Grandma's, maybe a great-aunt you barely knew. You open the lid and there it is: a tangle of brooches, beads, clip-on earrings and a few pieces that just might be something. Where do you even start?
I was raised by my grandparents in a house full of trinkets and treasures, and I've been buying and selling vintage for over 20 years. Here's the same process I use when I sort through an estate jewelry box.
First, Don't Throw Anything Away (Yet)
Single earrings, broken chains and odd little charms can still have value, especially to collectors and crafters. Before you toss or donate anything, sort it all first. Lay everything out on a towel in good light and grab a magnifying glass or your phone's camera zoom.
Sort Into Three Piles
- Precious metals: anything marked gold or silver.
- Signed costume jewelry: pieces with a designer or maker's name stamped on the back.
- Everything else: unsigned pieces, beads and odds and ends.
Look for Marks and Stamps
The back of a piece tells you most of its story. Check clasps, the backs of brooches and the inside of rings.
- Gold: 10K, 14K, 18K, or numbers like 417, 585 and 750. "GF" or "GP" means gold-filled or gold-plated, which is pretty but not solid gold.
- Silver: "Sterling", "925" or "800". Mexican silver often carries an eagle mark or "Taxco".
- Designer names: look for names like Trifari, Coro, Monet, Napier, Sarah Coventry, Lisner, Weiss, Eisenberg, Miriam Haskell, Juliana-style (often unsigned), Schiaparelli and Kramer. Signed costume pieces are what collectors hunt for.
- Patent numbers and copyright symbols: these can help date a piece. A © on costume jewelry generally points to 1955 or later.
Clues That a Piece Is Truly Vintage
- Clip-on or screw-back earrings rather than pierced posts.
- C-clasps on brooches (a simple hook with no locking catch), common on older pieces.
- Rhinestones that are prong-set rather than glued.
- Real weight: older pieces often feel heavier than modern fashion jewelry.
- Gentle, even wear on the metal, rather than flaking or peeling plating.
What Tends to Be Worth the Most
- Solid gold and sterling silver, even if broken, since they have metal value.
- Signed designer brooches and full parures (matching sets of necklace, bracelet and earrings).
- Victorian and Art Nouveau pieces, mourning jewelry and lockets.
- Bold mid-century rhinestone pieces in good condition with no missing or darkened stones.
- Sweet novelty pieces, like figural brooches, animals and holiday pins.
What Hurts Value
Missing stones, dark or cloudy rhinestones, green corrosion, broken pin backs and heavy plating loss all lower value. Resist the urge to scrub with harsh cleaners or dip rhinestone pieces in water, as moisture can ruin the foil backing on stones. A soft dry cloth or a soft brush is safest.
How to Get a Feel for Value
Search the maker's name plus a short description, then look at sold listings, not asking prices. What things actually sell for is the real number. For gold, diamonds and fine gemstones, it's worth getting a professional appraisal from a reputable jeweler.
Keep, Wear, Pass On or Sell?
There's no wrong answer. Many families keep one special piece for each person and let the rest go to someone who will love and wear it. A brooch pinned to a coat or a vintage necklace worn on a special day is a lovely way to keep a memory close.
Thinking About Selling?
If you have vintage jewelry or small oddities you'd like to find a new home for, I'm always happy to take a look. Tell me a little about what you have on my Sell Your Vintage page. I'll reply and ask for a few photos, and there's never any pressure.
And if you'd love to start (or add to) a collection of your own, browse our signed designer vintage jewelry, vintage brooches and mid-century jewelry.